The Dart and The Hem

Sketchbook Preview

2011-01-03T15:30:00.006-06:00

Revolutionary Uplift

2010-09-23T05:59:00.000-05:00

Scottie: What's this doohickey?
Midge: It's a brassiere! You know about those things, you're a big boy now.
Scottie: I've never run across one like that.
Midge: It's brand new. Revolutionary up-lift: No shoulder straps, no back straps, but it does everything a brassiere should do. Works on the principle of the cantilevered bridge.
Scottie: It does?
Midge: An aircraft engineer down the peninsula designed it; he worked it out in his spare time.
Scottie: Kind of a hobby, a do-it-yourself kind of thing!

Ah, yes. The Brassiere. A mysterious doohickey that has for many decades relied on rocket science for its function and design.
Well, NOT ANYMORE!!

This is a complete bra making kit which includes a textbook, a pattern and materials for 2 bras from Bra Makers Supply in Ontario Canada.
They sell all kinds of books and patterns as well as a full range of fabrics and trims and all the assorted notions you will need for brassiere and lingerie making.

I chose a classic full band bra pattern (you may also chose a partial band pattern) and pink for the color of my kit (white, black, brown and 2 shades of beige being the other choices). The full band style allows me to use or not use underwires and I like that. The pink on the other hand, I don't really like. I didn't want to pick black because it can be hard to see what you are doing on black some times and beige/nude is just boring. But this pink is the exact shade of pink that makes me vomit uncontrollably.It looks ok in the above picture but it is bright cotton candy pink! Good thing this is my first attempt and I will inevitably screw it up (or puke on it :)

It may not have been apparent so much on this blog but I am FASCINATED by underwear. I have been since I started making my own clothes and being interested in fashion in general. In other words consider the can of lingerie open and expect to see more about it.

the lace museum, Calais

2010-09-18T20:41:00.007-05:00

My friend Ksenia recently went to the north of France and visited the lace museum in Calais. She posted the following pictures on facebook with this message:

AMI, THESE PICS I MADE ESPECIALLY 4 U =)
HOPE U ENJOY THEM
this is the lace museum at Calais, the north of France, where lace manufacturing has been traditional 4 centuries, and in the end - vintage models of dresses and underwear of couturiers that now are legends

I thought I would share them with you since they are so beautiful.

Lace as you please (1852-1870)
Industrial progress and the expansion of colonial possessions made the Second Empire a period of prosperity. The bourgeoisie, growing fast, wanted to show off its social and economic success. Feminine dress became the visible symbol of masculine success. Lace found price of place on dresses, which gradually increased in size, as well as on the multitude of accessories that propriety recommended using.

I love the merriwidow hiding on the left.

Check out this link for an english article about the museum that includes some history of lace making in Calais (it was actually smuggled in by lacemakers from Nottingham, England) and some images of some very nice lingerie!

Shana Tova

2010-09-08T12:10:00.003-05:00

or in other words, Happy New Year! I like the idea of the year starting in the fall. It is a time ripe with new beginnings as well as a time of letting go of things and putting summer's bounty to bed. Unfortunately, this time of year tends to be a major clusterfuck for me. This year is no different! I left you all with a half-assed post about kittens in space with high hopes of returning from Nashville last week being inspired and to hit the ground running. I was seriously inspired and it was one of the best vacations I have had but hitting the ground running has never been my forte. I tend to trip and roll for awhile before I can even get up. So the purpose of this post is to give you a little heads up about a few things, kind of a table of contents, in the hopes that you will help stick to what I have laid out.

News and Notes

-You can "Like" Dart and Hem on Facebook
I have been setting this up for awhile and meant to tell you like a month ago. I wasn't sure about it at first but I think it is a great way to share bits and bobs along the way. Some inspiration, some discussions, etc... Check it out in the sidebar

-This year I will be making serious effort towards grad school. I may have mentioned grad school before, and I did get some lovely advice from some other bloggers about it. The gauntlet has been thrown. I am going.

Upcoming post topics

-A note about Project Phoenix

-Catch up on some completed projects

-oh, hey! The Sketchbook Project

-I will be taking a draping class starting later this month! WOOT!

-My current project, a 1950's clutch coat for my aunt

-The Hepburn Hepburn Project and more projects I should not be participating in

aaaaannnnnnddd...I think that is good for now! See you soon, cross my heart and kiss my elbow!

Ps. Did you know that wearing garters all the time can give you blisters on your thighs? And to avoid having the garter show through a tight aka wiggle skirt you should put the garters on backwards? And while Joan Collins was very happy when the girdle wearing days ended she thinks the fashion of that time was waaay sexier than fashion today. I happen to agree.

That's all.

Kittens in Space

2010-08-27T08:46:00.002-05:00

I saw this and thought it was the greatest thing I had ever seen since the video of the kittens in the shoe box. And I think you should at least be entertained while I am on a bit of hiatus. I have been very busy this last week or two and I am heading to Nashville over the weekend to meet up with Gertie (who has an awesome book deal!) and the gang to check out some vintage couture. I am busting with news to share though so as long as my computer doesn't crap out on me many posts and pictures and hitting the ground running when i get back!

Update

2010-08-08T16:38:00.003-05:00

I apologize for my bipolar way of posting. I was all gung ho to post all the time and have finished a couple items I'd like to share and have some other things I'd like to share but I had to step away. My reasons being logistical (my computer is a cranky old bitch), seasonal (the summer always seems to explode but I feel this year was way over the top in requests of my time being spent in places other than the one I want to be in) and emotional (I hit a bit of burn out, re-gathered my strength and whipped some stuff out then hit burn out again). I feel like I am running on fumes but wanted to check in because keeping up this blog IS something I care about doing and want to keep up. I have uploaded a bunch of my pictures and hope to have a few posts for you in the near future but I have some projects that need some serious attention (like my sketchbook and my aunt's coat) and more steady blogging will most likely pick up in the fall.

Ben Backstay was our bo'sun...

2010-07-23T11:56:00.007-05:00

and I am a very merry girl!
Remember this fabric?

It is now a sailor skirt. I loved HH's suggestion of a sailor dress but I had 4 one yard pieces of this fabric and wasn't sure if I could weasel a dress out of it. I also don't know if it is a color I want near my face. So I compromised.

I used Built By Wendy's A line skirt pattern from Sew U as my base and the Sailor in Bermuda tutorial on BurdaStyle. I rotated the darts on the skirt front out into the waistline. Not sure if that is how I was supposed to do it but that is what I did so I could put in the sailor front. It wasn't all that difficult but it did require some thought as there are a few different pieces and the tutorial just gives you the basic pattern shapes and no instruction as to how to put them all together. You wind up with a good amount of layers in the side seams. I also did not line this skirt (sorry, mom) as I wanted it to be a summer skirt and I was dealing with enough pattern pieces already. I also hate inserting linings. I think I may try out the vintage route and not line my garments but make myself a little trousseau of slips to wear under it all. Easier sewing all around, n'est-ce pas?
An attempt at a close up for more detail

I was really surprised at how well Berteau behaved for the photos. He looks good in all the pictures. I on the other hand look only so so. On the walk back to the house he decided to he wanted to be a pin up model.

This is actually kind of the image I see in my head every time I walk him. Except there is more wrappage of the leash, more falling over, and lots more skirt going up.

and then he sat on my foot. He likes doing this for some reason.

When I got home I decided this outfit needed some jewelry and remembered that I had this fish necklace.

I had a great idea for the image I wanted but trying to take pictures of your self that involve close ups and a more specific idea don't really work.

This is more of what I had in mind except with the fish being the only thing in focus and everything else blurred out. Instead I just got a picture of my cleavage. I will be the art director and model if someone else could be the photographer. Luckily I know lots of photographers. Unfortunately that would involve even less regular blogging on my part. Oh well! off to make friends with my tripod!

Gone Campin...

2010-07-05T07:44:00.003-05:00

Morning All!

I hate to destroy my nice run of daily posts without warning but I am taking the dog camping and will be back in a couple days.

Some 1920's inspiration

2010-07-03T07:55:00.001-05:00

I was staring at myself in the mirror while at work yesterday (vain, I know, but I work in a hair salon. I enable vanity. I am the gatekeeper to the most fabulous vintage styled hair in Chicago) And my hair has been doing this really awesome, perfect set of finger waves. And some how I thought of a 1920's vamp look. Which is very simple. Heavy on the eyes, heavy on lips and draw on the most expressive set of brows you can manage. I absolutely adore silent films so I looked up images of some of my favorite actresses of that era.

Pola Negri

Clara Bow

Alla Nazimova

Gloria Swanson

My hair actually kind of looks like Clara Bow's and Nazimova's. Then after work I bought some dark lipstick because my plan is to take some portraits of myself (again with the vanity). But that won't be happening this weekend. We are taking the dog camping.

PS. Nazimova, who has got to be one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen, was godmother to Nancy Reagan.

Bias Cut

2010-07-02T07:18:00.000-05:00

I cut my own bias tape. I wanted to make sure I had enough for my project because I didn't want to have to stop in the middle and cut and piece more together. Then I made even more because there wasn't THAT much of the fabric left and I was doing it anyway.

I may have gone overboard.

The Sketchbook Project 2011

2010-07-01T07:50:00.001-05:00

I am proudly participating in the Sketchbook Project and I am proudly being sponsored by local design firm Faucethead Creative.

You can find out more by following the links but in a nutshell: the sketchbook project is run by an art collective in Brooklyn and involves all the participants being sent the same sketchbook and then filling it in whatever way they wish in the next 6 months. The book must remain at the original dimensions when closed and you have to do something with it, no returning a blank book. The books are then taken on tour around the US. The books are able to be checked out like a library book. The books can also be digitized and stored in an online library. Oh yea. You must choose a theme (from a provided list) for your book. My theme is inside/outside.
Faucethead creative chose 4 people to sponsor. They are paying the entrance and digitization fees as well as postage and also being a creative support for us. Be sure and check out their blog, here or to the right, as they will also be posting updates on the project and are just super cool. They have also posted links to the other sponsored participants websites, a group of very awesome artists that I can't wait to meet.

My sketchbook was sent directly to Faucethead who put together a special package for us. (Have I mentioned how much I like getting things in the mail?)

I am the proud owner of my very own faucethead. Its like a trophy. And a giant kneadable eraser. When I took drawing class I always kept one in my hand, not necessarily for mistakes but to play with. It was like meditation. it helps me think. And it is better than smoking. And glue stick. Because collage is the art I have been practicing the longest. I think they read my mind.

Be sure to stay tuned as I will be posting about the process along the way!

"In defense of happiness"

2010-06-30T08:21:00.000-05:00

I have to link to this post by Rebecca of Girls Gone Child. it is probably the greatest, most inspiring thing I have ever read. If you have ever doubted yourself, as an artist, as a person, as a human, you should read it. And realize you can't ever be anyone except who you are. And that is a good thing.

A Perfect Peach...

2010-06-29T07:21:00.003-05:00

I am in a vintage peach kind of mood lately.
With a bit of black now and then to keep it from being too innocent.
(wink wink)

And also my first time really playing with polyvore. Anyone else have issues with images they have saved to polyvore not showing up properly when they move them into a collage? This was fun but I will have to play with it a bit more. I think it is good for exploring themes where I search through their stock of items. (why does topshop have a monoply?) If I want something specific using specific images I will have to stick to photoshop or paste and paper.

Sewing Karma: the apocalypse, and the 2010 project phoenix

2010-06-26T10:03:00.005-05:00

My intention to update sewing karma from every week to every month no longer exists. I am (not so) shamefully bailing on sewing karma for a few reasons. I can rack up points for myself fairly easily but it isn't putting money in my pocket to spend those points on. That is kinda depressing. I never found a really good way to keep track of points. I kept a jar of buttons on my desk. And calculated the points on the blog but I either had to count buttons or double check the previous post to know how many points I had. That was annoying. I have been doing really well staying motivated and getting things done. And that is really good. Because of this, I feel fairly confident in adopting a new 2010 project halfway through 2010.(I am naming it Project Phoenix, because it just has a nice ring to it!)

I have been doing a bit of pattern drafting lately and I have really enjoyed it. I pulled out my pattern drafting book from college to look something up and then spent some time just flipping through it. So, in the grand tradition of blogging about working your way through a book (Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing, Bridges on the Body, Peter's current travels through a patternmaking book) I am going to work my way through Designing Apparel Through the Flat Pattern. (hereafter referred to as "the flat pattern book" or "the pattern book")

I have standard sized slopers from when I originally took a flat pattern class in college but I also would like to draft custom slopers from my measurements. I found a copy of How to Draft Basic Patterns (hereafter referred to as "the sloper book") at the library by the same authors as my pattern book. This book deals only with drafting slopers or basic patterns from measurements either from a dress form or a person.

The rules: I have no completion date for this. I think the end of the year is not impossible but it is unlikely. The flat pattern book is a hefty enough tome. I will skip similar patterns as needed to avoid redundancy, tedium and boredom. I don't have to go through the book in order but can skip around and pick what looks interesting to me. I can use other books and switch around between books to learn different techniques. I would also like to make up some muslins so I know that the patterns work and so I can possibly make myself some clothes and reap a reward for all my drafting efforts. Questions, comments and suggestions are always welcome of readers.

Some patterns I am particularly looking forward to:

Interesting use of darts, especially at necklines, is a definite draw for me. I have bookmarked several vintage patterns simply because of their interesting use of darts at the neckline.

This reminds me of the bonus project Gertie made after her full gathered skirt, the halter sundress. It has that delicious open back. I will have to try out her skirt tutorial and then draft my own halter top.

I think this one has more to do with the stripes than anything else. With Tartan and Plaid being one of my favorite colors I will definitely need lots of practice working with and matching my checks and stripes.

This one is definitely more interesting. I love how the raglan sleeve goes into the chest band. I think this would be great as a lightweight spring/summer jacket/overblouse deal. Maybe in linen.

This just screams Erte to me. He is one of my favorite designer/illustrators. I feel like it evokes a handkerchief hem without the handkerchief hem. Something similar at the hipline of a pencil skirt could either be evocative of the 40's or become very futuristic. I'm game for both scenarios.

women's land army here I come. That's all.

knowing your weaknesses...

2010-06-24T08:09:00.003-05:00

I needed a case for my phone (since it was stupidly designed with the camera lens sticking out instead of laying flush). I really didn't want one of those ugly rubber band things. I found a few on etsy that I liked but couldn't see myself spending the $50 + shipping for the leather one that I liked the most.

I used a animal skin faux leather that I have had in my stash for a while (I made a tote and a portfolio case out of it in college and have plans for a handbag and an entire set of matching luggage.), some scraps from my fall floral shirt and a button from my button box. I ripped and re-did this like 3 times before I had to give up for the day. After sleeping on it I realized that I was going about it all wrong. On something this small you can't stitch leather right sides together and then turn. The seam allowance is too bulky. I forgot about that. I was able to salvage what I had and I simply topstitched it with the wrong sides together. No flipping right side out necessary.

I like the end result but I am never doing that again. Small accessories are not my bag, baby.

For Da...

2010-06-20T10:07:00.003-05:00

Happy Father's Day

darling dainties

2010-06-14T21:22:00.004-05:00

If you haven't heard already Colette Patterns is having a contest to promote their newest set of patterns. If you haven't guessed the new patterns are for lingerie or, darling dainties as they are being called. I knew coming from Colette Patterns that these peices would be cute as hell. The first thing I thought of was Liz in Butterfield8. THE most famous slip in the world. As I looked at pictures of her I just really liked the colors in the images. Her skin tone juxtaposed with the brass bedstead and the taupe of the walls, her jet black hair and, of course, her violet eyes. I pulled all of that into the Cinnamon slip. I am thinking a matching set of the camisole and some mini bloomers will complete the trousseau.

doesn't it just make you want to brush your teeth with whiskey and steal a mink coat?

Cindy-Lou

2010-06-07T17:04:00.003-05:00

Spandex!!!

2010-06-02T12:32:00.005-05:00

I am building bathing suits for some friends so I ordered swatches from Spandex World.

Golds and red, some stretch lace, powernet (girdles, anyone?) and what the HELL?? black mesh with red foil multisize polka dots?? I didn't order this! What does one do with this?? Well, apparently I did. Thank you dyslexia. So I put in another swatch order.

These are the sketches I have right now. The middle one is actually the Cindy Pattern from BurdaStyle. Which is how all of this started. My friend started describing what she wanted and it sounded exactly like the Cindy, with a few stylistic mods of course. The one on the bottom is me playing with ideas for another friend based on a suit she liked. The top one is mine. I want to figure out how to make it strapless and stay up. And then the three of us need a photo shoot on the beach.

Crafty Surprise

2010-05-18T22:44:00.001-05:00

Awhile back I won a crafty surprise package from Minnietheminks over at Bubbledust. If you are on BurdaStyle you may know her because of this piece of amazing awsomeness.

(drool all over keyboard)

Anyway, in the middle of moving from New Zealand to Australia she found the time to put together and post this crafty packet for me.

We have, starting at the top and going clockwise, a lace inset that I see at the neck of a black sheath dress, genuine toggles from the costume shop of the film Avatar, flower trim that I believe was originally bought for the above awesomeness and never used, a large vintage button that Minnie thinks would be great as a brooch and I agree, some mother of pearl leaves and butterflies, some cute labels, some very pretty black and white print buttons that I just adore and some blue spangly fabric dots that once belonged to a transvestite. Minnie, do I just iron these on? I have no idea how to use them but I am racking my brain because they are fantastic.

Thanks ever so much to minnietheminks!

PS. I love receiving little bits of fun in the mail. So please feel free to mail me whatever bit of fun strikes your fancy.

Dear Marmee,

2010-05-09T10:17:00.001-05:00

I found it!

Me made may

2010-05-06T09:29:00.000-05:00

And then there was Me-Made-May. I meant to post about this earlier, like three weeks ago when I was overly crazy stressed out and then didn't. So I am participating in Me-Made-May, the lite and self tailored version. Me-Made-May for me is going to be more about getting my butt in gear and making stuff rather than wearing only what I have as my collection is quite paltry.

add one pair of socks and a few pieces of jewelry to this. subtract the tree dress because it is unwearable (but I have a plan for it) and the black skirt because it needs to be taken in.

This is me on May 1. I thought I would start out on the right foot even though I had done no preparation whatsoever.

I made this necklace in high school. I always get tons on compliments on it and it is one of my favorite pieces of jewelry. I never wear jewelry. I have yet to wear anything else me-made. BUT over the weekend I made myself some beauty supplies.

That counts right? I made some rosemary apple cider vinegar detangler and some brown sugar and honey scrub.

Be sure and check out the Me-Made-May Flickr Group and check out the final list of participants with links to their blogs. And also be sure to check back here for more of me in my me-mades but don't hold your breath on that one. :)

best dressed

2010-05-05T08:47:00.005-05:00

I picked up a RedEye, Chicago Tribune's free daily, this morning on my walk with the dog. I have been making a habit of this to stock up on newspaper for our worm bin. I usually glance through it before before adding it to the pile in the closet. Today's has a page on the fashions seen at the Costume Institute Gala. A grand total of 6 pictures. Most of them declared a high fashion crime.

source

Yes, Joshua Jackson is wearing an ascot. No, this does not make him look like a character from Clue. A man wearing an ascot is hot. Hell, a man even knowing what an ascot is, is damn sexy. While this look isn't exactly formal I give him full points for not wearing a boring tux with a boring old black bow tie. He is wearing something that shows personality without being ridiculous. The ribbon flower in his lapel coordinates well and the choice of color was a good one.

source

Fusty, maybe. Outrageous, um...no. I like the shape of this dress. I like the tulle peeking out from the skirt. I like the teal and black color combo (the color in the paper was more muted and less bright than on my computer screen). This dress is very Chloe. My note on this actually reads "Chloe Sevigny looking very Chloe Sevigny". It is extremely refreshing to see a celebrity looks like they dressed themselves with out a stylist and not just once but always.

Why does being "best dressed" more about conforming to staus quo ideals of fashion and style and less about looking like you have a personality and are an actual person? The status quo isn't about style because there is not style without some character.

This is the reason I no longer read fashion magazines and why I could never work in retail.

And when did Claire Danes get married?

Sewing Karma: Weeks 3 & 4 April 19-25, 2010, April 26-May 2, 2010

2010-05-03T21:20:00.000-05:00

Sewing Karma: Week 3 April 19-25, 2010
Total points earned this week: 0
Total points spent this week: 0
Total accumulation: 22

I spent my free time last week helping organize a eco weekend retreat during which I lead a session about green cleaning with vinegar and baking soda and co-lead a session about sourcing food locally in Chicago. I got to spend time with some friends as well as meet some new people. Ate a bunch of s'mores at the campfire and frolicked with some goats and chickens.

Sewing Karma: Week 4 April 26-May 2, 2010
Total points earned this week: 13pts
Total points spent this week: 0
Total accumulation: 35pts

Sink laundry. Normally I would not give myself points for this but I did 3 or 4 loads this week of stuff that has been waiting to be washed for almost a year. And I have made a resolution to stay on top of doing my sink laundry because 4 loads in a week is just too many.
+5

More darning. I don't think it is necessary for me to give myself points every week because I will be darning every week until I am not wearing tights to work anymore but... it helps to re-enforce the habit and I need to buy some denim so I can make a pair of jeans before the pair I have left busts. So yea.
A note on the darning. I have been asked by a few people, moms, if the darning irritates my feet. No, it doesn't. I have only worn darned tights and not my socks yet but I haven't had any problems. My toes usually get cranky at the toe seam ( why couldn't kitchener stitch be more popular in mass produced items??) but nothing with the darned patches. So go darn your socks for victory!!
+3

Most evenings this week I spent tailor tacking my fitting shell. I wanted to attempt tailor's tacks and since I choose to use gingham and a dark one using a tracing wheel and tracing paper was not visible at all. After tailor tacking everything, all markings as well as seam lines, I put it through the machine with a basting stitch to re-mark everything so that by the time I sew it all together I will still know what is what. dear lord help me.

+5

Sewing Karma: Week 2 April 12-18, 2010

2010-04-19T16:00:00.000-05:00

April 12-18, 2010
Total points earned this week: 21
Total points spent this week: 5
Total accumulation: 22

Lint trap skirt – Sewing Projects | BurdaStyle.com
+5pts
(This should have been counted last week)

Darning my first sock

+3pts
Learning a new skill
+5
Blogging about it
+5

Darning the toes of 2 pairs of tights I wore this week
+3pts

I started a new job this week and my time management skills are a bit off while I get used to my new schedule. There was also some much needed socializing with some friends. Regardless, my free time was at a premium and mostly devoted to eating dinner and keeping up with my Google Reader and so very little got done in the way of sewing. I am designating Monday as my sewing day. Which is sort of failing as I have spent half of today blogging...

I had brunch with my mom yesterday at The Blind Faith Cafe. It is a fabulous vegetarian cafe and bakery that also has lots of vegan options as well (though I am a die hard meat eater). I had a Brie and Apple sandwich with cranberry chutney and Mom had peach crepes with corn, ricotta and a yummy maple rum sauce. We meant to go look in some of the cute shops in the area and wound up only going to Vogue Fabrics. Mom was laughing at me the whole time because I was a little kid in a candy store. "oh! Look at this!" " Oooo. Look at this one. This would be a great blouse!" Selfish Seamstress also paid a visit to Vogue on her recent trip to Chicago. I have always preferred the Evanston location because of the location and also because I felt like they had more stuff. It has been a while and I will have to re-check out the downtown location. She also does not share with you the amazing wool wall. It is my favorite. There is also an entire interior decorating room that I have found some awesomeness in. The remnant room is the crowing glory. I like it because the remnants are actually usable lengths and they have EVERYTHING there. Fancy silk to wool suiting to poly blends to interfacing and quilting cotton. Needless to say I lost some self control

Vogue Remnants

-5pts
I found four 1yd bundles of this nautical cotton print. It had my name written all over it. At first I thought a blouse but I also found a bundle of navy blue stretch silk that would be even better as a blouse with this as a skirt. Mom suggested a dress and I immediately thought of Sunni's naughty Secretary Dress. I think I like it as separates better because it will be more versatile. I am thinking a vintage pattern for the blouse and something simple and a-line for a skirt. But I am definitely open to ideas.

Mom also bought me a present of this fantastic cotton. I was obsessing and coveting it.

It is very light and drapes nicely but has a bit of body because of the weave. The triangle on the bottom corner is the wrong side of the fabric. It is actually a bit brighter in reality. The dots are yellow, orange, pink and olive green. I was thinking a cute sheath style dress with a wrap made with the wrong side out. The light neutral-ness is not usually something that looks good on me, it washes me out, but the dots are bright so Mom was thinking of using some of that on the neckline to bring more brightness near my face. They also have a dark medium blue version that was also great but I thought this was better. I am open to ideas for this as well.

Wow. I just got super excited just thinking about it. I am such a nerd.

And this perfectly describes what it felt like upon waking this AM.

see more Lolcats and funny pictures
I can't resist a good lolcat.

darn it

2010-04-16T16:32:00.001-05:00

Ever since Susannah posted about her Speedweve Darner I had to have one.

This is the Canadian version, The Darn Easy.

It goes nicely with the mending wool I recently acquired. And darn easy it is. I was able to darn my sock in about 5 nanoseconds and that includes me having to look back at the directions the whole time. Way easier (and cheaper) than running to target to get a new pair.

And it looks super neat and tidy. I just need to figure out exactly how to tie off the ends so that they look just as neat.

And have I ever mentioned that darning is a good skill for me to have?

My toes eat hosiery for breakfast.
I think I am going to be getting a lot of use out of my new gizmo and doing a lot more darning. Why did we stop darning in the first place?

processing backlog...

2010-04-14T09:42:00.000-05:00

I have started making a spreadsheet for all my patterns and I want to do all the fabric stash as well as one for projects I want to make. complete with images and sizes and fiber content and date. I am having a few glitches with excel, like how to you put an image IN a cell, on a mac? I love this project for times I need a break from creating and i think it will help with my 2010 project goals but it kinda feels like this sometimes (like when I spend an inordinate amount of time futzing with excel and still not getting what I want)

see more Lolcats and funny pictures

Sewing Karma: Week 1 April 5-11, 2010

2010-04-12T19:34:00.000-05:00

April 5-11, 2010
Total points earned this week: 6
Total points spent this week: 0
Total accumulation: 6

Corduroy jumper into skirt finished April 7

Lint trap skirt – Sewing Projects | BurdaStyle.com
3pts
(Please excuse the ridiculously horrible picture of myself in which I have no waist and should have worn heels. I am experimenting with taking pictures of myself with a self timer and tripod and no assistant. As my current assistant is horrible at assisting. Gotta do everything myself. sheesh. And then my waist got camera shy for some reason and took a vacation. I had quite a difficult time fitting the waist of this skirt. I had a difficult time with the jumper as well. The pattern is for a waist 26 and I am a 28 so ok let out waist 2 inches. I did that with the jumper and then wound up taking it in again. Then I took in the waist on the skirt another 2 inches. The actual measurement of the skirt waist is now 28 which means it has no ease which make absolutely as much sense as ancient Greek to me. Needless to say I think my goal of learning how to fit is a worthy one. I just wish I had someone to help me pin.)

Sewing new buttons on Black Jacket finished April 8

3pts
(I 'heart' these buttons. They are this double layer thing that makes them look folded and flower like. This is the second time I replaced the buttons on this jacket. It originally had large self fabric covered flat buttons that were hideously ugly and cheap looking. I found these buttons a size smaller than the originals (and these) and had used those. Then I randomly found the larger ones when I hadn't been able to find them before and they have been waiting to be attached to the jacket. now they are.)

***Also, the beautiful and delightful Amanda Atkins is celebrating over at her blog and having a contest in which you can win one of her gorgeous prints. Just scope out her Etsy shop (and while you are there check out her and her mom's vintage shop, Stella by Star), pick your favorite, and comment on this post on her blog. Winners will be announced on Sunday April 17. My personal faves are Zelda, Remember when i loved you, A new beginning 1953 and I am saving up to buy all her paper dolls for my sewing room. ***

the 2010 project: Sewing Karma

2010-04-05T16:00:00.001-05:00

So now that last year is behind me lets move on to this year (only 4 months late but that is ok). So far this year I have completely cleaned out my childhood bedroom (my mom has begged me to do this for years and I have avoided it because it was a HUGE undertaking), moved 3/4-7/8 of all of my stuff out of my apartment, prepared myself (mostly mentally) to live out of one just bigger than carry-on sized suitcase for an unspecified period of time, and then moved all my stuff back into my apartment 2 months later. And now I feel like I have too much stuff. We all probably live with more stuff than we realize and more than we most likely really need. We do this because the items that we own define us. They represent who we are and what our interests and hobbies are. We also define ourselves by what we own (or what we don't own). Our belongings act as a sort of character map for who we are both for ourselves and for others.

I enjoyed my 2 months of living with less. I liked the extra space in my closet. I liked the simplified choices (except when I didn't). My goal for 2010 is to use the supplies that I have before I bring in new. In sewing as well as in knitting I tend not to buy yardage or yarn without a specific project in mind and so my stash of those things is not very big. I have collected quite a bit of clothes to be repurposed or refashioned. I also have a stash of half finished projects or projects that have materials set aside but were never started. I want to continue pursuing projects that push me a bit, help me learn new skills and make me a better seamstress. The best way, I have decided, to keep me on my path as well as allow myself some rewards for good behavior is a Sewing Karma Point System. By using up some of the materials and supplies that I have as well as doing something new or challenging I earn points. I can use these points towards buying new material or a new pattern or for something I can't really make myself. It is not completely fleshed out yet but this is what I have so far:

2010 Sewing Karma Point System (I have based my points relative to what I have and what I think my weak(er)nesses are.)

+5, using a pattern I already own
+10 to 15, drafting my own pattern
+10, using fabric or clothing that I already own
+10, completing a 1/2 finished project
+5, completing a project and then blogging, ravelling, burdastyling about it
+5, completing a project with new skills building elements
+3, misc. darning, mending, altering
+5 to 15, misc. projects (for example, building myself a stand for my giant roll of brown paper for patterning)
+10 to 15 misc. book/research projects (because I want to get used to thinking critically and writing about it in prep for grad school)

-10 to 15, buying a new (to me) pattern
-5, buying new (to me) fabric from the remnant room
-10, buying new (to me) fabric from the bolt or yarn

I haven't figured out how I am going to keep track of my points. I am thinking a jar with buttons in it. As I am still working this out and I would love your input if you have any. Does this sound like an interesting idea or just silly? Are there projects or ideas that you would like to see me explore?

have you met Gloria?

2010-04-03T13:57:00.002-05:00

Gloria was my high school graduation present. She is a Uniquely You dress form. The concept behind her is that she is a foam body, so she has some give and squishiness like a human body, with a fitted dress cover. The dress cover you fit to yourself or whoever and make the adjustments and then zip the dress over the form. There are 2 sizes you need to choose: the size of the foam body based on your hip and waist measurements and the size of the dress based on your bust measurement. I am kind of between sizes. I bought a small foam body with the smallest dress cover size. I should have bought the petite foam body size with the largest dress size. Needless to say Gloria is much bigger than I am and has earned the nickname Fat Gloria. I have never attempted to actually fit the dress cover partially because time and an assistant is needed and also because I was never really able to get the cover on her, unaltered, in the first place.

I have since lost the fitting instructions but I called Atlanta Thread where I originally bought Gloria from and asked if it was possible for them to send me another instruction sheet. So one should be on it was to me shortly. And then we will see what happens. I know some of the corset makers have taken an electric knife to the foam body to reduce the waist more. Any sculptors out there who want to assist me with this project???

A very merry un-birthday

2010-03-31T13:39:00.000-05:00

A few weeks ago I began to think about why I started this blog. I have been thinking up a new 2010 project and its relationship to my opening post and the post by Kate Davies that inspired this blog. I have found that I started this blog as my sewing and knitting and all things related haven just over a year ago. Before beginning a new project I thought this would be a good time to check in and give myself a bit of an evaluation of the past year.
I have not been the creator of a mass of perfect garments for myself as I perhaps thought I would be but I did make a few things. More importantly I learned a few things about sewing, knitting, fashion history, the sewing blogger community and most importantly about myself and where I fit in and feel comfortable among all of those things. I had decidedly stated that I was not ready to stop buying clothing for an entire year (with a whole crock of bad excuses) and then that was exactly what I did! At least mentally anyway. I bought a few items during my trip to Israel in August and a couple more in the Fall that still need to be documented so I can get out of Re-Fashionista Jail but I was much more conscious about what I bought and tried to make more than I bought, Being more self-sufficient is an idea that I have grown increasingly attached to, in all aspects of my life. I am trying to be a more conscious (vs. unconscious) consumer. I try to buy from local shops, buy used items when I can, and donate or repurpose what I no longer need before I think of just throwing it away. I am not always perfect in these aspects but I am more aware of them and my 2010 project will continue to explore these ideas.

So the year in review:

Tree dress

Tartan School Tote

Summer Dress

Floral Fall Shirt

Find me on BurdaStyle.com

Art Smock

Corduroy Jumper

I participated in my first clothing swap through which much of my unwanted clothes received new lives and I received:
a cardigan, a little black dress, a wrap-to be used as dress material, and a skirt I liked the design of that I would like to copy

Fixed 2 winter coat pockets and completely replaced one more

Learned how to create faux smocking with elastic thread in my sewing machine (Used to repair Arabian Princess Dress)

I attended 2 natural dyeing workshops and taught my first knitting class (I hope to do more of both of these things)

Jersey dress (I wear this ALL the time. Definitely a good buy if there ever was one) and Belt (often worn like this or a variety of other blouses and other dresses. I wear this a lot. I need more waist fitted belts)

Tunic top (good with skinny jeans or as a beach dress)

Leggings, black (this doesn't need a picture does it?)

Sweatpants (this doesn't need a picture either, right? Haven't owned a pair since high school. I did wear these all winter as they are super comfy for around the house.)

Sweater Coat (This was my main splurge. I just loved it so much and I don't really have a between jacket. I get lots of compliments on it. It isn't wind proof though. I have thought of lining it with a breathable wind breaking liner (also one that is silky as it is currently lined with fleece that sticks to my clothes and makes it sometimes hard to put on))

Bought but does not require a Get Out of Jail Pass:

Cute shoes

Memphis Belle Dress

2 vintage handkerchiefs

Paris Scarf

V is for Victory

2010-03-22T19:35:00.004-05:00

and D is for Darning.

I have been wondering and hunting for some darning wool. I was beginning to think it would be impossible to find and I would have to attempt to dig up the stash of it I got at an estate sale when I was a child. If it is still in will all my childhood belongings at my parents' house. Then last week I went to Loopy Yarns to pick some more yarn for my Sartorialiste scarf (which I have completely frogged and have re-started) and there in the sock room in the back corner it was. A whole display of unassuming neutral colored cards of darning yarn looking exactly as I remember them looking when I was a kid. They are selling it more as re-enforcing yarn to carry along with your main yarn when knitting toes and heels but it is also labeled "darning yarn." I was so excited I could hardly contain myself. I wanted to buy one of every color. I stuck to just buying one, in a olive green, because I just busted a hole in a pair of green socks and have yet to actually try my hand at darning. I would say that it is relatively inexpensive at $3 a card compared to buying (or knitting) a new pair of socks. And don't forget the priceless joy of learning a new skill and reveling in being a grandma waaay before your time.

Mauve: the color that changed the world

2010-03-12T16:42:00.004-06:00

Fashion plate, day dresses, 1864, Victoria and Albert Museum

I have recently finished reading this book: Mauve: how one man invented a color that changed the worldBy Simon Garfield. I am blown away by the fact that I never heard about this story, not in chemistry class, not in textiles class and not from anyone I know who is a dyer.
In 1856 at the age of eighteen William Perkin discovered the color mauve. Mauve was the first aniline or synthetic dye and the first color to be produced and marketed from a by-product of the coal industry, coal tar. Fifty years after Perkin’s discovery there were 2,000 artificial colors. Originally used to dye wool, silk, cotton and linen, colors stemming from Perkin’s mauve are used as hair dyes, food dyes, wood dyes and medical and scientific dyes. Perkin more than revolutionized the dye industry he revolutionized the field of chemistry. The chemical processes used to create mauve have been used to create the artificial sweetener saccharin, photographic chemistry, perfume and artificial scents, the first plastics (think celluloid and bakelite), synthetic fibers, aspirin and some of the first chemotherapy treatments for cancer as well as explosives, napalm and Zyklon B, one of the gasses used at Birkenau (produced by chemists who were camp prisoners).
Perkin was a student of August Hofmann and was working on creating synthetic quinine to me used as a Malaria treatment. He was working in his home laboratory and not at school at the time. Had he been working under the supervision of his teacher or with another student the black substance he created would most likely been tossed aside and considered to be of no real use. Working on his intuition and curiosity Perkin refined the black substance into the fiver percent of it that contained mauve. Perkin admired the color and proceeded to dye a piece of silk with it. He subsequently learned that the color did not fade or wash out. Aniline had previously been used in the dye trades but most chemists upon discovering a color did not think marketing a dye a worthy practical use of their calling. Perkin did not know what to do with his discovery. Producing a substantial quantity was difficult as aniline was expensive and he had no knowledge of factories and producing chemicals outside of a laboratory. He also knew that Hofmann would not be supportive. Perkin built a bigger laboratory in his garden and worked with his brother, Thomas, to create more mauve each time refining the process and creating a purer color. A friend of Thomas’s knew a dye manufacturer in Scotland. One company produced the only lilac dye of the time. They could ask any price they wished for it. Perkin applied for a patent. Perkin’s intention to produce mauve commercially caused a rift between him and August Hofmann. Hofmann thought it would destroy Perkin’s career as a chemist. Perkin secretly shared this fear. The textile and dye industry in Britain at the time, with ever increasing production rates, was in place fit to exploit Perkin’s color. In 1857 Perkin with financial aid from his father built a factory and within 6 months it was producing mauve aniline dye. Perkin gave speeches about his new color and the process of dyeing material with it. He applied for a French patent and was denied because he had failed to register within six months of his British patent. Perkin became discouraged and seriously wondered if Hofmann had been right. Had he ruined his career? And then Queen Victoria wore mauve to her daughter’s wedding and Empress Eugenie decided that mauve was a color that matched her eyes. And then mauve exploded. It was everywhere. It was as if a strange mauve disease had spread like wildfire amongst the fashionable set. Mauve stayed in fashion until 1861.
Perkin died in 1907. He was celebrated for his contributions during his lifetime and was granted several awards and medals. The Perkin Medal in Chemistry is named for him. Now he is mostly forgotten.
One of the things that I found interesting about Perkin is that he seemed to be a humble man. He became a very wealthy man but he cared for his family and he cared about being a scientist more than about the money. I highly recommend this book. It is easy to read for non-chemists with a bit of chemistry thrown in for those who are chemists (and I just ignored because I am not a chemist). This book is also interesting because it discusses other issues as well, chemical run off from factories, substances in everyday objects that are harmful or dangerous to the general public, intellectual property rights and probably more. The Chicago Public Library has it so other libraries probably will as well. Check it out.

Shades of mauve, found via google search

(F)inished (O)bject

2010-03-07T14:45:00.006-06:00

FINALMENT!!! It feels so good to finish something. I might try and finish things more often :)

So here is the 40's Turban that I started in October.(Ravelry link here.) It is a Bestway pattern from the V&A archives. I used Knitpicks Shadow in a kettle dyed dark green. I bought 4 skeins and held the yarn doubled throughout. I knit 2 of these babies with the idea being that I would sew them together for a double layered extra warm midwest winter hat. But my head is too big for that so fail and I have 2 hats. You could easily knit one hat with 2 skeins and still have a bit left over.

This was pretty quick and easy to knit. You need to know knit, purl, increase, decrease and short rows. It was complicated enough to be interesting but boring enough to watch tv while knitting. I really like the yarn so far and don't have any complaints other than the fact that it is lace weight so balling it was a bitch. I don't own a ball winder or a swift so balling yarn is a bitch anyway. It is also a small project so easy to take with you. The pattern is not too confusing unless you think about it too much instead of just doing. There aren't any images or schematics either so you don't really know what you are knitting until you finish the first half. You wind up with 2 baseball cap shaped pieces like this:

You sew them together around the round cap part and then the ends of the "brim" together to form a loop. It is also the sort of accessory that once you put it on you don't want to take it off because (you look so damn cute!) it is kind of a process to put on. You put the cap part on your head and then twist around the front bands to make a "knot" and pull the loop over your head to the back. Best not to try this with a fancy hairdo. There is also a stocking stitch version that is constructed differently that might be less weird to put on.
I think the hat is a bit small for me. It doesn't stay on my head very well and doesn't quite cover my ears like I hoped it would. Not sure what I am gonna do about that yet. I think that could be easily remedied by using a slightly heavier yarn and going up a needle size. Maybe I will (gasp) frog all of it and knit another one with the yarn held quadruple through out. It is a quick knit so that wouldn't be so bad and it is becoming spring so there is time :) Now more work on the OD Henley I started 2 years ago!

Trying something new...

2010-03-03T19:16:00.000-06:00

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A much belated (posting of an) honor (cross posted from Amy was Here)...

2010-02-26T12:41:00.001-06:00

About 2 weeks ago I was honored by the lovely Homely Heroine with some blogger awards and I have failed to post them. Which I feel is not only bad blogger etiquette but really bad manners towards my longest and best blogger friend. For these things I apologize and hope that she will forgive me. I was delayed in posting mostly because of 2 things, I have been working a temp job full time and have just had less time to blog and also because my life has been a bit of a roller coaster lately and most of the things that I blog about (on either blog) have been put on a back burner while I deal with the other things in my life. Everything is on its way to being worked out and I am trying to get myself back on the blogging band wagon but it may be a little slow so please bear with me. And now with out further adieu...

This award is kind of special to me. Homely Heroine honored The Dart and The Hem with this one and it made my day. My life has been a bit difficult and stressful lately and I was so elated to receive this (and for a blog that I am working very hard on with not too much success). For this I must tell 7 things about myself that you may not know and then nominate 7 other blogs.

1. I want to go to grad school and study fashion history and theory (and maybe museum practice too). FIT in NYC has a perfect program but I don't really want to live in NYC anymore. I have been thinking that maybe studying in the UK would not only be appropriate but more interesting than NYC. I am just not sure how to research programs in other countries.

2. I also would like to spend an extended amount of time in Israel, probably before going to grad school. I think if I could intern or volunteer at a museum it would be beneficial to my grad school resume but there are also really great environmental programs that I would love to do and just can't decide which I want to do.

3. I have never been away from home for more than 3 weeks. I am DYING to live somewhere else for awhile. Though I am fiercely proud of my hometown. (Check out Bertha Honore Palmer, she was proud of my hometown too and she is my heroine)

4. I hate wearing pants, most of the time. I much prefer to wear skirts and dresses. I feel more like myself in them. I also freeze in the winter so I am wearing mostly pants right now which drives me crazy. I am working on making myself winter skirts and stocking up on tights. I am in love with wool tights right now too.

5. I hate shopping. Which I think is kind of weird because I like clothes and fashion. Though most of my interest lies in good construction details which is hard to find these days at a reasonable price point and in vintage styles which can also be expensive and isn't necessarily mainstream. But my loathe for shopping extends everywhere. I don't even go to the grocery store. We have groceries delivered and then go to the Farmer's market or a small local grocer. It is all just so overwhelming and makes me question my old school-ness and I feel like I don't fit in and need to be something that I am not.

6. I am obsessed with self sufficiency. From making my own clothes (everything in my wardrobe, including underwear and socks except shoes) to growing my own food (I would love to have a kitchen garden that provides most veggies and some fruit trees and shrubs. I also want to have chickens because I eat an insane amount of eggs and I have a weird fascination with chickens. Now I think a few dairy goats would be good too) and making my own lip balm and soap and lotion and studying herbal medicine. I have actually been thinking about writing a book about urban homesteading for truly urban people. AKA you live in a tiny apartment with no personal outdoor space or very little of it so what can you do to feel and be more self sufficient? There will be no chicken keeping or outdoor composting or hooking up your bicycle to you washing machine in this book.

7. This one is for HH. I have not read all of the Aubrey Maturin series yet. BUT I have been wandering around singing "Safe and sound and home again.." under my breath for a very long time. I will read all of the PO'B repertoire within my lifetime and i will learn to sail at some point. :)

This was awarded to amy was here just for making HH smile and has no meme requirements. HH, you make me smile too!

So here are my nominees for both awards:

1. Wild Rumpus because she writes very thoughtful and honest posts that make me think, want to be a better person and make me feel less alone in my short comings.

2. Amanda Atkins in a Canary Forest because she is an amazing artist as well as a fellow vintage style and animal lover. (and the person I heard about SNM from. Sorry I just can't get over it!)

3. Vintage Red because she has placed a formidable and admirable task in front of her and goes through it with hilarious honesty. And she used to live in Chi-town.

4. Sustenancebecause she is a good friend of mine, a newbie to blogging and has really good insights and ideas.

5. My Happy Sewing Place because she got the vintage haircut I wanted! (Though I think i wanted the one that was the next step longer, the middy plus.) She also lives in Scotland and I really really want to go there right now.

6. Sweet Sassafras because she inspires me and is a most lovely and friendly person (even though I don't really know her) and she designs the most fabulous vintage inspired home sewing patterns.

7. Rockin' the Roccoco because I just have to bring attention to this project and unendingly praise her for it. I drool buckets over this.

Hope these blogs inspire you as much as they inspire me and keep checking back because i definitely have some lovely and tasty things to share with you very soon!

something knitty...

2010-01-09T14:31:00.004-06:00

I haven't had a knitting related post in awhile. My knitting is in a state of a very steady plateau. I have a core group of a handful of projects that sort of rotate in and out of my hands. This has sort of been the case for the past year or two. Occasionally a new small project will enter the bunch but I have been primarily working on the same few projects with out anything new for awhile. That includes buying yarn. I haven't bought yarn in awhile but I only buy yarn if I have project in mind for it (regardless if I actually make that project with that yarn or even at all.) I have a much larger fabric stash than a yarn stash.
I spent the night at one of my best friend's house a few nights ago and one of the things we did, well started, while her baby was napping was go through her knitting stash. She has a bunch of vintage patterns that she received from her uncle's mother in law. She didn't really know what to do with them because most of the patterns she either didn't like or didn't really think she would ever make. I suggested ebaying them. Keeping or xeroxing the few patterns she liked and selling the rest. Vintage is hot right now. She told me to take ones that I liked and I brought home these two:

I love the girls dress (made in the largest size as a tunic over leggings), the vest, and I am extremely intrigued by the bobble helmet and knee socks in the Blarneyspun booklet. The other booklet has some really wonderful late 50's cardigans as well as several men's patterns.

getting myself out there

2009-12-04T10:38:00.004-06:00

So to help aid my search for the vintage patterns from VoNBBS and some others that I have found that just kill me with their beauty (like this one or the slim skirt I mentioned last week) I set up google alerts. I have mixed feelings about this because even though they are set to "as it happens" I don't really get alerted as it happens because it takes google a few days to search for them. This is particularly not helpful because the alerts I get are very rarely actually relevant to what I am searching for so when they are what I am searching for it is sometimes too late. I think the alerts are helpful when I am too busy to search everyday on my own. That being said I received my first google alert referencing myself!

Google Web Alert for: Advance Pattern 8425 slim skirt 1950's vintage

The Dart and The Hem: my vintage wardrobe...in patterns
I really liked the portrait neckline blouse and the idea of a slim skirt so ... (I am desperately in love with Advance 8425 but haven't any luck finding it ...

it is a perfect example of why i find google alerts not that helpful. I received the alert yesterday sometime and the post is a week old! But it made me happy in a different way (:

Update: Google does it again but this time in a more timely manner! I got this one a few hours after posting:

The Dart and The Hem: getting myself out there
By amy
Google Web Alert for: Advance Pattern 8425 slim skirt 1950's vintage. The Dart and The Hem: my vintage wardrobe...in patterns. I really liked the portrait neckline blouse and the idea of a slim skirt so ... (I am desperately in love ...
The Dart and The Hem - http://dartandhem.blogspot.com/

I think google just likes itself but I am wondering how long I can keep this up :)

my vintage wardrobe...in patterns

2009-11-25T22:20:00.010-06:00

I can't believe that it has been 3 weeks since I posted! I feel like I have lots of news. First off I have finished the navy blue corduroy jumper mentioned in the previous post. I wore it to a friends for dinner and got lots of compliments. I forgot to take a picture so that is still coming. I think I am going to wear it this weekend to show off so I will be sure to get a picture then. Secondly is a string of related things:
I got this book about a month ago. I have been lurking ebay and the internet trying to find the patterns and I have found a few but they go for prices that I can't really afford right now. This was kind of discouraging so I stopped obsessively looking for them and instead tried to find similar patterns which has been fairly successful; some of which I like even better. Then I decided that if I am going to spend this much time and money on it I might as well just get the patterns I like. (Duh!) So I have been building a wardrobe with the idea behind the selection of patterns in VoNBBS sort of guiding me. I really liked the portrait neckline blouse and the idea of a slim skirt so I started there.

The illustrations Vogue decided to use on the front of the envelope are unfortunate because this top has more variations that you don't even know about until you flip over the envelope.

oh. hey! a sleeve variation and a low back neckline variation! If the seller hadn't photographed the back of the envelope I would never have even considered bidding on it. I like variety. It gives the pattern more longevity. The seller I bought this from also included a handwritten thank you note and told me he would be adding more 50's and 60's patterns soon. I am a HUGE sucker for a handwritten note so I checked back in his shop to see what else I could find.

The slim skirt. I like this one, again, for the variations. released pleats/darts, welt pockets or the cute side front yokes. It is a one yard "instant" skirt. This seems to have been a popular theme. (I am desperately in love with Advance 8425 but haven't any luck finding it yet)

This super fantastic dress has a variation with slits in the neckline so you can pull your scarf through! This was one of my favorite features of the background dress from VoNBBS. I also like the other 2 neckline variations. The tabbed version reminds me of this dress.
I received these in the mail just today but there was a third pattern in with them! Curious. I looked for the handwritten note.

"Thanks again Amy. I included an extra pattern just for the fun of it. Maybe you can use it with the skirt."

Ha!

I love it! This is a blouse for all seasons and has lots of options. And it has a monogram. I always wanted to be like Lavergne and put a large "A" on all my sweaters. And it back buttons. Back buttoning blouses have been sort of scarce. How awesome was that?
The what is to be a very awesome, very vintage make over of my wardrobe is off to a good start. I am trying to stop obsessively looking at patterns and start obsessively sewing. I have a project that is on temporary hold since I am out of town for a few days over the holiday but I am hoping to finish up the first half of my 40's knitted moss stitch turban.

Happy Thanksgiving! Make sure you eat too much!

hmm...

2009-11-04T15:28:00.004-06:00

I started making muslins for two different patterns that are essentially the same project. I have about 3 yards of navy blue pinwhale corduroy and I have been trying to figure out what to make out of it. I originally bought it to make a pair of wide leg pants but honestly I hate wearing pants and my wardrobe needs more fall/winter skirts. At first I thought just a simple A-line skirt with a center seam and the panels cut on the bias so they chevron in the center. But I wasn't really sold on it. Then I actually pulled out the material and it is much lighter weight and finer whaled than I had imagined it. I never really wanted a skirt anyway so I decided to make a jumper. The corduroy is so fine that not only can I not find the nap (I am slightly embarrassed to admit it) but it is almost like velveteen so I thought maybe a jumper that could be dressed up with snap in chiffon details and go cocktail hour. (a la the left)

Not really sure how that would work out so it is scrapped or at least on the back burner for now, mostly because I am on muslin number 2 and I am getting sick of it. I originally was making the Coffee Date Dress by Elaine May over on BurdaStyle because it was the overall shape and style I wanted and the pattern is free (so I don't have to buy it and I don't have to draft it myself). This was my first time using a pattern from BurdaStyle and while I think it is convenient and awesome that I can print a pattern at home it is sort of not convenient and not so awesome. There is a lot of taping and a lot of matching up things that don't exactly match and the trying to get it to print the right scale. Pluses and minuses, pluses and minuses. Back to the pattern I am mostly finished with the muslin except for a zipper to see if it does indeed really fit and I had decided to lower the back neckline. I was all settled on it. Then because of several other things going on that started influencing my every waking consciousness (more on this in another post) I remembered that I had this:

It is one of the two patterns I bought in July at my favorite shop. I had never pulled them out to check if they were complete. So I did that. And THEY ARE!! best $2 ever spent. So I decided to make a mock up of this jumper because I know the waist will need to be um...let out and it will need to be shortened by about 10 or so inches. I did the darts on the bodice and then I lost my sewing mojo. I just want it done already and what am I supposed to do with the muslins other than relegating them to the scrap bin? Then I read on Gertie's BurdaStyle Vintage Thursday column that women used to do tissue fittings and basted fittings because doing muslin mock ups is expensive and a more modern phenomenon anyway. Honestly I am always terrified that I will accidentally destroy the tissue if I do this but I think I am going to try it on this and then trace off the alterations onto kraft paper so I can still keep the original, original. And that is where I am now.

Sewing: Summer Shirt

2009-10-22T09:47:00.000-05:00

This shirt was made from the Summer shirt pattern in Downtown DIY Sewing by Alice Chadwick. I bought the book on sale because I liked the dress on the cover (which looks nothing like the photo of it on a person inside the book). I have several critiques of this book. First of which is that I think the instructions are poorly written and particularly confusing if you are a beginner and have no solid previous knowledge of how a garment comes together. And some of the instructions are just bad and could be made better very simply. For example the cuff piece on the sleeve is just a band folded in half lengthwise. The directions have you sew this folded piece directly to the right side of the sleeve and leave all the seam allowance hanging out. What?? Sew one edge to the right side of the sleeve and press the other raw edge under and stitch in the ditch. Also the seam allowance is 3/8 in or 1cm. That is tiny! Way too tiny to even comfortably finish properly. I bound the seams with seam binding as it seemed to be the easiest thing to do with out suffering severe burns on my hands. All in all this is my new favorite shirt and I do have plans to make one or two more despite the issues that I have with the book.

1 1/4 yd Floral Print Cotton, Vogue Fabrics, Remnant room, $4-5 total
Vintage buttons from Broadway Antique Mart

This is how I like to wear it. I have become very fond of wide belts worn at the waist.

And this is the muslin from it. I made it into a work shirt/messy shirt. it reminds of a french painters smock for some reason. You can see how it is wider at the bottom where i decided to take in the real version. I made the pockets out of the sleeve pattern. I shortened the cuff to the width i wanted for the pocket and removed the sides of the sleeve and adjusted some of the gathering so it was less full. 2 shirts for the price of one!!!

yarn*con 2009

2009-10-19T22:32:00.008-05:00

Spinning seemed to be the main topic of the day, at least for us.

and needle felting pumpkin pins

and $5 mystery bags of yarn. the three dark pink ones were my bag (it was labeled as dark pink, that is why i chose it) all acrylic but i am happy with it. the little green one is leftovers from my stash that i thought contrasted nicely.

Oh, and have you met Simone? She is the lovely model above whose first attempt at spinning you are witnessing.

am I crazy?

2009-09-23T18:07:00.005-05:00

I just came across this picture of Karolina Kurkova and thought "huh, i kinda like the fringe cape. Especially with jeans. In the cascading shades of grey. It wouldn't be that hard to make one. Maybe I should make myself one." and then I thought that i would look totally crazy in a fringe cape because I am NOT Karolina Kurkova or any other model fashionista person in New York City. What do you think? Is a fringe cape crazy? even in neutral shades of grey?

Welcome Back!

2009-09-16T16:34:00.004-05:00

Hi Everyone! I am back from my travels and I know I have been slacking in my posting seeing as I haven't posted anything on either blog yet. Bear with me though I have lots I want to share including the spoils of my Get Out of Re-Fashionista Jail Card (yes. i went shopping in Israel) and the shirt I have been working on and some knitting. I am having some issues with downloading pictures right now since my computer memory is mostly full and my external hard drive and my computer are no longer getting along so it will be a bit longer.

BUT i cam across this today and had to share with you. I haven't looked at it too in depth yet but looks like an interesting project.
Garment Industry History Initiative

let me know your thoughts and hopefully I will have a real post for next week.

I'm an Arabian Princess and my Daddy just bought me a tiger...

2009-08-08T22:18:00.004-05:00

I bought this dress in Tel Aviv 2 years ago. It is one of my favorite dresses and I feel really special when I wear it. Last year I put it on to see how it would work as a skirt and all the elastic shirring popped and I was just left with a swath of fabric. It sort of just sat in the closet because I thought it would be a huge pain to fix. Then I cam across this post from Sugar City Journal and realized it might not be so bad. Then I forgot about it and it continued to sit in the closet. Then it joined the list of items that I own that I need to fix or re-fashion or alter. Then I thought I might want to wear it on the trip I am going on so this week I did it.

I bought some elastic thread and now I am a princess again! And it was SO easy and fun. I want to do more smocking just because but it will have to wait until September.

And the title of this post is what B taunted me with when I first wore this dress.

So I have tried to be good about posting every week as per the rules of the game but I am leaving the country tomorrow. I am going to Israel for 3 weeks, part with a group and part just hanging out with my fam and friends. For more info and updates on the first part of my trip check out www.israeldiplomaticfellowship.wordpress.com.

A Guide to Better Sewing

2009-07-31T09:30:00.004-05:00

I am in love and obsessed with Gertie's New Blog for Better Sewing. The idea is based on this book from the 50's

which claims to be able to make you a better seamstress one project at a time. There was a line of patterns that corresponded with the projects in the book but were sold separately. Gertie has tracked down some/most of the patterns and is sharing her experience of working through the book and use of sewing techniques from the 50's (copious tailor tacks and hand overcast finished seams, anyone?).
The thought that i probably do not have to add for those of you who have been on this blog before or who know me even just a little bit is: I TOTALLY WANT TO DO THIS. I am generally not as much of a fan of the 50's as the 30's and the 40's (the huge skirts are fun but not so practical, same with the wiggle skirts) but the pattern's in the book and the projects of Gertie's that she has posted on the blog seem really nice and fairly practical. i love the portrait collar blouse, the background dress and of course the evening dress. The bow tie blouse and the shirt dress are of course classics. And initially not really taken with the slim skirt until i read Gertie's post about her slim skirt where she talks about the construction of it, now I want to make one whether or not it is flattering. The skirt is made with only one yard of fabric and has only one seam, up the back, and it is shaped only by a the series of pleats at the waist line. it is the vintage construction techniques that really get me. That is what I really want to learn. (and more on that later)

In other news, I am trying really hard to post something every week. Thursday seems to be the day with the exception of this week. i mostly have bits of vintage stuff i have found to show you as my own sewing has been a bit off and going slowly right now. I did pick up the green sweater i was knitting again and have just about completed the body and will start the sleeves soon-ish. I did sew up a dress a couple weeks ago but i broke one of the straps on it during our last trip and need to mend it. I will hopefully post that for you next week. I have also been working on the muslin for a shirt and it is going really slow. it has been hard to find my mojo in my new sewing studio. it is cute button down with short sleeves and gathering along the yoke. i think I want to make a shirt dress out of it too.

So in lieu of photos this week go check out Gertie's blog and report you thoughts back to me!

Memphis Belle dress

2009-07-23T20:07:00.005-05:00

Jules and Suzanne

2009-07-16T09:12:00.006-05:00

Jules and Suzanne run my favorite little antique/vintage shop. My Dad and I used to go in there all the time but since i have moved out of my parents house and the shop is not very near my new home and we all have crazy schedules we have haven't been there in awhile. Like years. We went a couple weeks ago since Dad had a day off. We decided to go antique-ing together, we were looking at treadle sewing machines. Jules and Suzanne did not have a sewing machine but we had to go anyway. We lovingly refer to them as "The Girls". Suzanne wasn't there when we went but Jules was (as well as Jackie, Jules' little dog) and upon entering we received a cheerful greeting followed by a "I haven't seen you in awhile". I had been wondering if we would be remembered or not. We used to shop there a lot but not all the time and we usually bought stuff. Its a hard store to walk out of empty handed. We were there for over an hour digging through everything. The store is very literally packed and you never know what you will find. My grand total was about $13. here is what i brought home:

Paris Scarf, Silk I wore it the other day. I really like scarves. I just usually don't know how to wear them.

Button-er, I have no idea what these are actually called. i think I am going to start collecting vintage sewing/dressing implements. Because I need another thing to collect.

Patterns. I have no idea if they are complete or not but they were $2. The shirts in the 60's pattern have a separating zipper all the way down the back. My first thought is "Is that neccessary? can I change that to a shorter zipper?". My second is " Ouch, if you are sitting in a chair with a back".

And they have a huge selection of buttons. So i am starting there next time I need buttons even though it wil be an hour nad half trip on public trans... but the perfect vintage buttons are always worth it!

Wardrobe Refashion Pledge

2009-07-02T18:36:00.004-05:00

I __Amy_Sobotta____ pledge that I shall abstain from the purchase of "new" manufactured items of clothing, for the period of 6 months. I pledge that I shall refashion, renovate, recycle preloved items for myself with my own hands in fabric, yarn or other medium for the term of my contract. I pledge that I will share the love and post a photo of my refashioned, renovoted, recycled, crafted or created item of clothing on the Dart and Hem blog, so that others may share the joy that thy thriftiness brings! Signed__Amy Sobotta___.

That is my pledge. I have to let you know, especially those on my cheerleading team, that I am not officially signed up at Wardrobe Refashion. Why? because according to their rules i need to post on their blog once a week. I don't think I can post once a week, but I will try. I will also be out of town July 5-12 and August 9-30 with no access to my blog at all during those times. That is the only exception to the rules that i am making. After August, depending on their sign up schedule i may officially sign up with them. I was originally going to do 2 months, and then 4 months, and just now i decided to go for the gold and do half a year. That is today July 2, 2009 through January 2, 2010. Cheerleaders I hope you are ready for your job.

So here are the official rules:
1.
No buying new! (handmade is excepted; So this allows for Etsy purchases etc!!) All clothing must be Recycled, Renovated, Preloved or Thrifted, or Handmade only for the term. Employment related and special needs clothing (ie sports, school), shoes and undies are excepted from the rules, although you are encouraged to have a go at making these.
2.
In extreme circumstances, maybe a special event, or the worlds greatest and most amazing never to be repeated sale that you simply can not pass up, you may use the Get out of Refashionista Jail Free card. You are able to use this card once during the 2 month part of your contract; ie 1 for 2 months, 2 for 4 months etc. Of course you need to fess up on the blog and display the button!
3.
You must post on the blog at least once a week to let the community know what you've been up to. This will not only give you brag points, but inspire and encorouge others! Of course you need to display the button on your blog and have copied the pledge in at least one post, and provide a link to your pledge under the button.
4.
You need to be honest and admit when you've fallen off the Refashionista Wagon! Go directly to Refashionista Jail, do not pass GO and do not collect $200! Apply for parole once there.

almost forgotten...

2009-06-19T07:39:00.005-05:00

I brought these home form my parents house a couple of weeks ago. Some of it I had forgotten i had. I am very excited about the patterns since I was lamenting having to buy some since they are so expensive. And all the little bits are very fun and should spruce some of my upcoming projects.

mystery knitting...

2009-06-04T18:55:00.004-05:00

Skein 3

2009-04-23T14:43:00.001-05:00

70%merino/30%silk, cutch, pomegranate, quebracho green, wattle, chestnut, logwood gray

The last skein I dyed in blocks of color. This one I dyed by pulling out sections and dyeing them. I spent about 2 hours on this and I left part of the yarn blank. It is a very tedious process. I am not entirely happy with the results. i might re-wet it and add some pop of purple or some other color to it. Though a nice subtle mix was what I was going for. it was inspired by this colorway by Three Irish Sisters.

Skein 2

2009-04-15T18:19:00.001-05:00

70%merino/30%silk yarn, Indigo overdyed with madder, chestnut, cutch and fustic

And here are some pics of the finishing process:

The yarn is wrapped in plastic wrap or put in a plastic bag and steamed for 45 minutes. My extra rice cooker worked perfectly for this as it fits one 100g skein very nicely.

Then you hang it up to dry for a few days and then you wash it and let it dry again. We dyed on Wednesday nights and I steamed on Thursdays and washed on Monday so it would be dry again for Wednesday. I just washed in the sink with my usual sink soap.

Slow Fashion Meet High Fashion

2009-04-09T15:43:00.000-05:00

I have been wanting to knit this turban as my new winter hat. (I left my elf hat on the train accidentally while trying to meet up with a friend) I love vintage clothes and here I am thinking I am being semi-original and slightly demode and I find these on the Sartorialist:

I think a burgundy, marooon, wine-y color would be fab for my turban but my coat is that color and that i think would be a bit much. Maybe for wear with my brown down coat so I don't feel so dowdy...(the contrast of the turquoise snakeskin clutch leaves me completely done in by this look. Simple with some pop of color. I love it)

As elegant as I think white can be, as it is here, I think it would just get too dirty. And I think it would fail to make me happy in the dead of winter.

Skein 1

2009-04-06T15:23:00.009-05:00

So here it is folks, my first hand dyed skein of yarn!

It is a 70% Merino 30% Silk blend hand dipped in Indigo. The whole skein was dipped to give it a light blue base and then I pulled out individual sections randomly several times and re dipped them for scattered darker hues throughout. It dried down a lot so it is overall quite light.

i am currently obsessed with this colorway from Three Irish Girls. I feel like i need a matching tam/beret, scarflette, and mitts set out of it. In something textured like moss stitch. it is my inspiration for the hand painting we will be doing this week in class.

DROOL...

Cat: The Ultimate Fashion Critic

2009-03-19T16:39:00.000-05:00

see more Lolcats and funny pictures

Clothes Swap

2009-03-11T15:15:00.010-05:00

I went to my first clothes swap. A friend of a friend was hosting at her apartment. I had 2 bags of clothes and a bag of shoes. It was hard picking out things to give a way. I kept saying "no i can refashion it somehow," but that pile is big enough already and I haven't done any of it yet. I was kinda worried that I would come home with as much stuff as I brought over but I tried to be really picky and only took things i really liked.
I highly recommend a clothes swap. I have tried to get some friends to do one for a while and no one seems to want to because i am too small. Unfortunately for them i gave away some awesome pieces that were too big for me. I also gave away some stuff that I didn't really think anyone would take so your trash may very well be someone else's treasure. There were also several pieces that had been swapped before. Start one of your own with a group of friends and some snacks or do a google search for one in your area (Chicagoans find some links below).

I really liked the colors on this scarf/wrap and thought i could make something out of it. I am thinking a simple sheath dress. and there should be enough fabric, it is wide and folded in half it is much longer than i would want the dress to be.

and its from the Women's Foundation of Nepal.

This dress was my friend Erin's. Erin has awesome clothes. She suggested and I might take the sleeves off to make it more versatile. I wish you could see the texture. it is kinda crochet-y

I took this sweater because I kinda liked the color but more than that it is the style of sweater that i want more of. It hits around my waist instead of around my hips which is way better for dresses. The hip length ones get overwhelming and I think look kinda frumpy with a dress. The only thing i don't like about it is that it is kinda thin and the button band is a little too heavy for the rest of the sweater so it gaps. But i can easily use it as a pattern to make my own sweater(a theme for my taking home items). A concept that I have been thinking about heavily lately. i will post my ideas on this later.

more on a theme. This skirt is way too big for me but it is the exact style of skirt that i want to make for myself for the summer. A-line with a kinda 70's feel.

It also has this great pocket detail. That's why I took it. Just so I can copy the pockets.

later that evening when I went to yoga my teacher gave me this shirt. its a cirque du soleil shirt nad i think the pattern is really fun. I also don't have a lot of long sleeve shirts.

The whole thing made me kinda laugh because i went to the swap and then my yoga teacher had more clothes for me. It was kinda funny.

Chicago Clothes Swap Links:
Clothes Swap Meetup(other cities might have meet ups too)
Chicago Clothes Swap(Seems to be very organized and has multiple drop off locations. Drop off your stuff pre-swap in exchange for chips that you can "purchase" items from the swap with)

Handpaints by ME!

2009-03-11T14:57:00.005-05:00

In just a couple of weeks I am taking a class on painting yarn with natural dyes. Handpaints are some of my favorite yarn. I am a sucker for anything that changes color. I don't always know what to do with them but i love them. achkoiguchoo. Need I say more? So I am super excited about this. Maybe I will start selling my very own handpainted yarn on Etsy and become one of those... I have also started being really interested in spinning. I spun once in college with a drop spindle and found it incredible annoying but i feel like picking it up again and trying. I found this kit on the MVFF blog. Its not expensive and the spindle is hand made on the farm where the alpaca are raised. Sounds right up my alley.

Swatches!

2009-02-27T14:05:00.004-06:00

These are from NearSea Naturals, a company that specializes in organic and sustainable fabrics. I haven't ordered yardage from them but I have ordered 2 sets of swatches and they are sent out promptly and there is a handwritten thank you on the invoice.
I am planning some summer skirts and dresses and I think that it would be fun to do some dyeing (hence all the white and natural colored fabrics). I really would like to make all my own clothes. Even jeans. Am I crazy?
The curly looking rich brown chambray on the middle left is the swatch I ordered for handkerchiefs. It was mentioned on the website as being good for handkerchiefs but is has a sort rough texture and a slightly loose weave. I think that the poplin will be better but I need to test wash it first. The lace was for trim on handkerchiefs. So I can be all fancy.
The jerseys and knits are beautiful. I think that they will make nice t-shirts and maybe some skirts. The melton I swatched with this pattern in mind. I have been thinking about what I want to do with it for a while now. I also just found this one. i love all the vintage patterns especially the dresses.

For HH...

2009-02-23T13:06:00.008-06:00

My knitting and sewing has been sort of lax recently. I have been concentrating on my gardening in between yoga classes and whatever other classes I happen to be taking. I am still working on my green sweater and am starting some socks next week for a Wodehouse knit-a-long. We are reading Uncle Fred in the Springtime.

I designed this dress awhile ago and I have mentioned it before. It is the HH dress. I keep telling her that I will post the sketch for her but I keep not doing it. Here it is:

The collar isn't snug around the neck. it is a little wider and stands a bit away from the neck but not quite a cowl neck. it will be somewhere around knee length and the skirt is a-lined but i am not sure if i will cut it on the grain or on the bias. On the bias will be drapier but the plaid will be on an angle (like the pockets on my school tote)
Here is a better shot of the plaid:

It is similar to a Gordon plaid with an added red stripe.

The fabric actually has a very nice drape because of its rayon content. i haven't started on it yet but i am trying to be better with my time and schedule myself more time to work on sewing and knitting projects. So hopefully more soon and more regularly in the future!

the tartans and plaids discussion continues...

2009-02-01T19:47:00.000-06:00

I actually finished this bag before christmas but I put it to use right away and the holidays were kind of busy... I am incredible pleased with it even though it looks exactly like my high school uniform! I picked up the fabric when I bought the fabric for the Homely Heroine dress. I will post about that shortly and it is next on my sewing list. The fabric is a poly/rayon blend. Not my first choice but it does have nice drape which is good for a dress. The bag is pilling a bit where it rubs against my coat but it is holding up well otherwise and I put my bags through lots of abuse. It is lined in a forest green and I added a big divider type pocket and some organizer pockets on the inside. I like the design so much i want to make another one. I am thinking a snakeskin print interior design fabric so it is a little more sturdy and more season neutral. I really like snakeskin bags. i need to make a few adjustments to the pattern and construction so it is a little simpler to finish but other than that it came out perfect on the first try (though my plaid matching is a little off).

Please click the title of this post for more information on tartans and plaids. The plaid here is Black Watch.

the tree dress, finally, and a bit of disappointment...

2009-01-30T14:23:00.006-06:00

I started this dress back in April and I just finished it last week. It has been a long and harrowing experience. I finally got the muslin to a place that i liked and altered the pattern and then finally got around to cutting out the fabric maybe 3 weeks ago and started going and realized that i hadn't referenced my little sketch before i cut and had to recut a few pieces. Then i had some guests and it got put on hold again. Then I finally finished it.

And I don't like it. The top part is still too big and it looks funny on. Bryson thinks it is because the feel of the dress is more feminine and the fabric is more stark and sort of structured. And on me the proportions are off. The black makes the top half heavy and while i like the length on me it is almost too short to compete with the top. I have some ideas on how to make it look better and i want to take in the top half but not right now. It is going to sit in my closet while i work on some other things before i come back to it.
I had such high hopes for this dress. sigh. oh well...at least i have a new black sash.

I have another dress idea that I want to work out the pattern for and I would like to make myself some handkerchiefs. Right now I am taking a sewing break and working on some knitting that has been hibernating awhile.

the Gap window says it is 20 colors of spring. my thermometer says it is -10 F...and that's the high for the week...

2009-01-17T18:54:00.005-06:00

I recently read this post by needled. It was so inspiring on so many levels. As someone who has studied Fashion and worked as a seamstress I am aware of how much waste there is in the fashion and textile industries. The textile industry is also very hazardous to its workers health. I have always been one to enjoy quality vs. quantity but as I became a college student and then a person who had a very difficult time finding a job-or a direction for that matter- my "fashion" budget has been... lets say very low for the past several years. Not being in school anymore has lead me to want to look nicer. I am not spending all of my time in a Darkroom where I can spill chemicals all over myself and ruin "nice" clothes so now i actually want "nice" clothes. I had recently decided that since I have more time to spend on myself that the best way to get clothes that I love and will fit and I will wear out is to make them myself. Then I read the above mentioned article. I don't feel like I can make a commitment to not buying anything-there are too many things in my closet that need severe repairs or alterations along with too many things i simply do not like- but already having decided to make a good number of things for myself i do feel comfortable trying to push it a little further. If i do make a purchase I will buy the best that i can afford and only buy something I love and not settle for mediocrity. I am also inspired to try to organize a sort of regular knitting/sewing meet up. A way to share what I know about making, altering and mending clothing as well as a chance to be social. I think that the current economy is pushing more people to return to a simpler way of life where you have to use it up, wear it out or make it do.

While I have stepped out of the world of high fashion in the past several years and have recently made a few attempts to get reacquainted I think I could never be a slave to fashion. My morals and ideals for this life have just been set too high to live by the standards that industry has set. I wish for a return of the smaller dressmaking houses like Martha, like what Charles Worth was in his day. Expert people who created not just fashion but a wearable work of art based solely on the level of technique and construction involved in each piece. A wish for a mass understanding of what it takes to create something, anything, from an idea and image in your head to a material object that sits in front of you. All done by someone's hand. The problem with this wish in today's world is that object now created becomes very difficult to throw away. One must create with a purpose to make something special.

The dart and the hem are the first and the last steps respectively when putting together a garment and so encompass every other step taken when making a garment. So here we are at the beginning...